Introduction to the Tan Suit

The English language has an abundance of words that all imply a light brownish-gray color. Different designers commonly use different words for the same color, or the same word for very different colors.  For purposes of stylistic discussion they all perform about the same -- you won't find any set of circumstances where a "tan" tailored suit would be appropriate but “khaki" wouldn't be. In their most common usage the different styles of light coat break down as follows:

• Tan refers to light, predominantly brown shades.
• Dun refers to a darker brown than tan, sometimes with a greenish tint.
• Khaki is the most dominantly yellow shade of the related colors, with little brown or gray.
• Taupe is a darker color with gray tones as well as brown.

These are, however, only general guidelines, and every store or designer will have a slightly different take on each color.  It's not impossible to see other terms as well -- just remember that, from a stylistic standpoint, they all follow the same rules. Which one to purchase will be a matter of taste, complexion, and budget?

Formality of the Tan Suit

Light colors similar to tan are not as formal as their darker counterparts.  Brown suits in general have been a historically informal choice, and have only recently been embraced as business-wear by men looking to break-up the monotony of dark color in their wardrobe.  The lighter versions are still considered purely social wear or seasonal wear by those who adhere to strict dress rules. 

Lighter color suits are also associated with spring and summer, their lighter shades signifying the lightness of the season.  Trying to wear a light colored suit in New York City during December not only invites odd looks but opens a man up to the impracticality of keeping it clean from muddy slush.  Light colored suits are best for dry & warm weather. 

As a result, tan suits are usually considered business-casual wear.  They may well be appropriate attire for daily work at more relaxed offices, but will not serve at formal meetings or serious occasions.  These lighter suits shine best when worn for social and relaxed occasions -- as poisonous as the term "leisure suit" has become, with its brightly-colored polyester associations, that's exactly what most light brown/yellow/gray suits are made for.

They're a relaxed choice for men who prefer to appear well-dressed even during their personal time.  Patterning may be used to make the bespoke suit still more casual.  Both stripes and checks are common in light brown suits, including subdued plaids of varying earth-tones. 

Windowpane pattern : worth trying

Since the ubiquitous yet gifted Tom Ford has brought back windowpane patterned tailored suits in 2012 for a publicity campaign that was quite hard to miss (see below), the pattern is more and more often seen in quality ready-to-wear and made to measure collections, and of course, in bespoke.

For history’s sake, this very particular pattern was, before, previously, most often used for sports jackets and casual styles, as seen in the examples below (Marc Guyot in MTM and Huntsman in Bespoke):


But recently, the windowpane pattern is more and more often seen on business or formal suits, adding an unquestionable dash of style to elegants’ ensembles.
Here are a few examples, picked here and there, in different labels.

Cesare Attolini



 
Steven Hitchcock Bespoke (courtesy of Rose Callahan)

Michael Andrews MTM (courtesy of « the style blogger »)

Timothy Everest MTM
Personally, I am still a little bit reluctant to jump in and order a full windowpane suit, because I still find the trousers miss a little bit of understatement, while a coordinated windowpane sport jacket with a nice flannel grey colour trouser seem more discreet.
But, after recently admiring several  windowpane custom suits (including from Attolini’s), I feel ready to jump on the windowpane bandwagon soon. Time has come to open the large windows and let the light come on our suits !

The Scholte Drape Cut, you like it or you don’t…

The most knowledgeable among you have certainly heard of the “famous” drape cut, allegedly designed by Frederick Scholte, tailor to the Prince of Wales who had noticed that adding an extra amount of fabric to the shoulders of a bespoke suit could create a more casual and athletic look.

This type of cut is translated in quite visible vertical, or drape, pleats in the front and back of the jacket, creating the visual illusion of broader shoulders, and thus a smaller waist, while adding comfort of movement.

Since then, many Americans have adopted the cut, probably because of their stouter figures than Europeans’. Here at PG, we have our reservations on the drape cut.

Here is the theoretical visual basis of the Drape cut (from Gentleman’s Gazette).

And here are a few photos, first of über elegant Cristobal Balenciaga.

Michael Anton (aka Nicholas Antongiavanni), author of “The Suit”

Detail of a bespoke double-breasted suit made for Bruce G. Boyer and photographed by Rose Callahan, from her excellent blog The Dandy Portraits

Without getting into a specialized technical debate and to stick to a subjective assessment, we at PG are not at all feeling the love for this cut, which we feel does not do so much for comfort (all those used to bespoke will attest that a very high armscye, without extra fabric and a small chest brings unexpected comfort) and mostly hampers the general visual effect because of billowing pleats we find rather ungraceful. We have a strong preference for a streamlined visual effect, which we feel is the main thing gentlemen seek in a bespoke suit.

Yet the custom suit cut is quite liked by two labels we very much respect, namely Anderson & Sheppard and Mariano Rubinacci.

Which is to say, it’s always a question of taste, and we like it like that…

Junya Watanabe Spring 2013

Junya Watanabe Spring 2013- Double Breasted Blazer

Importance of Proper Fit in Men's Suits

Contrary to popular belief, men's bespoke suit should for all time to be comfortable. If they are not, it is the fault of the clothes' fit, and not of their nature. Suffering for beauty's sake does not do a man any good, either; if the fit of a garment makes its wearer uncomfortable, he will give the impression of being it. Definitely, a man looks his best when his clothes fit so well he barely notices them. On the other hand, if they are too tight, they will be pulling and choking at every turn; too loose, and a man looks like he has had to borrow some clean clothes from his older brother as he struggles to keep them out of the way. A man's clothes send a message to the world about him, and if they fit him well, he will always make a good impression.

 

 

 

 

Most men today wear poorly-fitting clothes, and it is not hard to see why. The goods sold in stores are cut to fit as many people as possible, and that means big. At the same time, the fashion-industrial complex creates new so-called styles by bending or breaking the time-honored traditions in menswear; thus it is that designers and commentators may debate whether baggy or fitted pants are 'in' this season while neither look as good as the timeless middle-ground. A good deal of men still rely on women to hold their hands through shopping trips, but since the prerogatives of fit are altogether different for women's clothing, the results are often sorry. 

Finally, when you are buying a garment, the retailer has little incentive to tailor it properly, since nobody seeks out a mall store because he's heard they do great alterations. Thus as in so many things, it falls to each man to take responsibility for the fit of his own clothes, and not to be swayed by the prolific selection of poor choices or the dubious influence of models, salesmen, and the opposite sex.

The first step in acquiring properly fitting custom suits knows what proper fit looks like. In general, clothes should be comfortable, but not loose. Pants should be worn at the natural waist, near the navel. Young people with flat stomachs may choose to wear them lower, as has been the style for a decade or so, but they gain little in doing so. The man with a belly, on the other hand, looks much better with high-rise trousers draping from his middle than with his stomach spilling over a low-rise waistband.

Proper fit is necessary for a suit

Joseph Letzelter loves wearing a bespoke suit that has a good fit. Indicated for some tips, you can determine if a suit is actually a good fit, and if it is worth buying. One of the foundations of a good choice for a suit is to be comfortable. Joseph Letzelter not like to wear loose clothing. The section of the housing is generally the width of the shoulders, with the seams that join the tubes resting against the body of the sheath easily follow along the place where the arms are connected to the outlets of the shoulders.

Joseph Letzelter states that the length of the sleeves and pants have a good fit. Sleeves must reach the top of the jacket for each palm, when the arm rests on the side of the body. Remember that a good choice for a tailored suit demands that the ever present clean lines and does not require the company at any point along the body.

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