Tuesday, June 4, 2013
Basics of Fit
Nothing is more important in constructing your appearance than fit. Well-fitted garments follow the lines of the body without hugging them tightly, while poorly-fitted ones sag or pinch; the best-fitted garments will emphasize a man’s best lines and disguise the rest. There is no substitute here for custom work — unless you happen to share the exact measurements of the model used to program the machines, a mass-produced article is going to fit poorly in at least one way, and likely more than one. Seek out a tailor you feel comfortable with, and ask them to help create a cut that bespoke suits your body.
In general, adjustments and details are designed to heighten the viewer’s awareness of the wearer’s physical strengths. Thin men can benefit from wider cuffs, broad men from high waists; tall men treasure low-notched lapels while short men will want their jackets cut short in the back to lengthen the presence of their legs. These are the details that tailors earn their living with — find one who will talk frankly about options for your body type, rather than simply recommending a similar pattern to every customer and adjusting only the measurements. True custom tailoring (also called “bespoke”) will include consideration of fabrics, patterns, pocket styles, venting, and more — all of these should be discussed in the context of your body and your look.