Wool Custom Made Suits

Customers come to us with only one thing that they are certain of: They do not want wool suits. No one would recommend a wool custom made suits for a wedding in July in the deep South, would they?

But often wool is just what is called for when the humidity and tempratures are extreme.

A Brown Tropical Wool Suit Lined in Leno Stripe Cotton

Tropical wool is fine and lightweight.

In fact, if you purchase a cotton shirt to wear with the suit, the cotton shirting will often be quite a bit heavier. Tropical wools are often about 7.5 ounces in weight. What is more, wool breathes. It is a natural fiber that wicks away moisture and keeps you feeling dry. When you pair a tropical wool with a rayon or cotton batiste lining, it makes for a suit that is equally as summer ready as a seersucker or linen suit.

What makes tropical wool unique in the world of summer suits is that it is utterly crisp, smooth to the hand, and often has the slight sheen that comes with a superfine fabric. A tropical wool suit is in every way formal. Make a tux from it, and it is simply a tux. Make a business suit from a tropical wool, and it is simply a fine suit that is ready for business.

Linen and cotton are always a bit relaxed and summery. But tropical wool is perfect for the summer suit that doesn’t feel like a summer suit. The retro design of the vest (with the straight hem) and jacket for the tan suit was loosely inspired by some Steve McQueen movie stills that the customer sent to us. We wanted to do something that felt fresh and modern but with some interesting 1960s detailing.

Learn From Dad's Dress

Wear Lightweight Dark Fabrics

Learn From Dad's Dress

Wear Lightweight Dark Fabrics

1.  Invest wisely.

My dad taught me that clothing doesn’t have to be expensive, but should be of high-quality, and that the two don’t always come together. I remember him leaving at crazy hours on Black Friday to go shopping and questioned why he would do that.  But after he came home with a Gucci blazer for $200, I stopped doubting his bargain-hunting abilities (and stole that blazer a few years later).

2.  Make a subtle statement.

 {While this bow tie, shirt and jacket could serve as statement pieces on their own, when put together they are visually distracting.}

{A bold piece like this bow tie completes this polished look.}

Find one bold accessory to transform something classic into something unique.  When picking out your outfit, avoid mixing too many patterns and prints, as it tends to come off as trying too hard.  Instead, utilize one “statement piece” to to center your outfit around.

3. Confidence is key.
Dad used to say, “dress for the job you want, not the job you have”.  You never know who you will come across at any time in life, and you want to be prepared.  Our clothes are the first impression we give to onlookers.  Choose clothes that build a positive self-image for the person you aspire to be.  Clothes don’t make the man, the man makes the custom made suits.

Wear Lightweight Dark Fabrics

Heavier Men
Wear Lightweight Dark Fabrics
A man with a fuller frame will benefit from a lightweight, dark custom made suits.  Suits built from bulkier textiles  that are lighter in color will only add weight, emphasizing size. Light colors make the body seem fuller while dark colors provide a slimming affect.  Choose colors like black and dark navy which are as complementary as they are classy.

Men's Jewelry

A tie clip will keep your tie from flying over your shoulder on a windy street while evoking an on-the-go lifestyle that requires such assistance. A simple stripe of gold, silver, or some other metal is acceptably classy; anything more appears gaudy. Tie clips look best worn at an angle to counteract the rigidity they connote for some.

Black Tie Men's Shirts

The dress shirt beneath a black tie jacket is always white; there is no room for negotiation here. Collars should ideally be turndown, with the collar points hidden behind the bowtie, but modern black tie (particularly in America) has come to accept the sharply-pointed wing collar as well.

Bottom Heavy Men

 

Heavier MenWear Lightweight Dark Fabrics
A man with a fuller frame will benefit from a lightweight, dark custom made suits.  Suits built from bulkier textiles  that are lighter in color will only add weight, emphasizing size. Light colors make the body seem fuller while dark colors provide a slimming affect.  Choose colors like black and dark navy which are as complementary as they are classy.
Solids or Vertical Stripe Patterns
Solids work best to create a sleek, slender visual. Loud patterns will definitely work against you. Since vertical stripes elongate the frame, they are both appropriate and chic.
Two ButtonJackets
The most flattering look for a heavier man is the two button jacket.  The two button is versatile and won't draw attention to your bulky frame.
Single Vent / Center Vent
It is advised to avoid double-vented jackets. Vents, which are the slits at the back of the jacket, allow more movement. They also attract the eye, so huskier guys may not want to accentuate their backside. Instead, go for a single-vent jacket, which will give you the extra room you need without the extra attention.

Men's Jewelry

Men's Jewelry

A tie clip will keep your tie from flying over your shoulder on a windy street while evoking an on-the-go lifestyle that requires such assistance. A simple stripe of gold, silver, or some other metal is acceptably classy; anything more appears gaudy. Tie clips look best worn at an angle to counteract the rigidity they connote for some. A tie chain works much the same as a tie clip, but instead of a fixed bar holding your tie in place you have a drooping chain of silver or gold. Lastly there is the tie tack; it looks something like a stud earring with an inch of fine chain extending from the back. One sticks it through the center of the tie and then attaches the chain to a button hole. Since it requires poking a hole in the tie and thus damaging it, we do not recommend its usage.

Unlike other pieces of jewelry, a man does not have a rotation of wedding rings to be coordinated with the day's other jewelry. A man should be advised that a plain band, of gold, silver, or platinum, is the most stylish choice available. If you are already married and have something more ostentatious on your finger, do not fret, few people notice it and no one will think less of you for it. Besides a wedding ring, other rings of symbolic value may have a place on the well dressed hand. A class or fraternal ring is seen on many stylish men's hands. Rings worn entirely for their own sake are somewhat dubious however, since most contemporary societies frown upon such blatant displays of wealth. If you are in a position where looking rich works to your advantage, though, a ring embedded with precious stones can accomplish this within the boundaries of professional attire.

Black Tie Men's Shirts

Have A Closet Full Of Carefully Chosen Jackets In A Variety Of Fabrics

Black Tie Men's Shirts

The dress shirt beneath a black tie jacket is always white; there is no room for negotiation here. Collars should ideally be turndown, with the collar points hidden behind the bowtie, but modern black tie (particularly in America) has come to accept the sharply-pointed wing collar as well. Traditionalists consider the wing collar too ostentatious for proper black tie, but it is still widely available; men are here, as with peaked lapels, encouraged to consider carefully how much they want to draw attention specifically to their outfits.

Well-made dress shirts should always have a doubled-over "bib" of fabric up the front of the garment, usually decorated with narrow, closely-spaced pleats. The shirt fastens with studs, not buttons, which should always match the cufflinks and are generally restricted to black, gold, or mother-of-pearl, with black being the most common. 

Better Clothing Quality and Build

When you have a custom garment created, you are giving a very specific set of instructions to an artist who wants to realize your vision. They work their magic with your chosen fabrics, and the final product is their handmade creation, not a stale cutout from a factory. Quality is higher because each garment is individually created, inspected, and tested. You won't find that even at Brooks Brothers.

 http://mansuits123.blogspot.com/2013/07/have-closet-full-of-carefully-chosen.html

Have A Closet Full Of Carefully Chosen Jackets In A Variety Of Fabrics

 There are many who take pride in their appearance at all times, and these will have a closet full of carefully chosen jackets in a variety of fabrics and colors. Wearing sport coats, however, does not necessarily mean owning a large wardrobe. With a blue blazer alone, you can create a huge variety of outfits for all manner of occasions. Add jackets of Harris tweed and herringbone, and you could be ready for just about anything.
Light gray custom made suits is a popular color in warmer climates, making lightweight wools and cotton a natural choice for light gray suits.
"Tropical weight" wool may actually work better than cotton for a suit coat in humid climates -- wool wicks moisture away from its wearer and resists saturation much better than cotton if it is not woven for the heat (seersucker is an example of cotton woven the right way for heat).
Even lightweight wools still have a natural drape that also make them ideal for menswear, falling smoothly down the body without seeming too sculpted or too flowing.
Summer and tropical suits are also often made of linen. This natural fiber is much lighter than wool, and tends to billow on its own. Dyed linen tends to have a very flat, matte appearance as compared to the more lustrous wool.
Cotton is a distant third material, occasionally woven in lightweight twills to make affordable suits, but these tend to wear and stain easily, and lack the breathability and water resistance of wool or linen.
Again - seersucker is the best way to wear a cotton bespoke suit in light gray - but light grey seersucker suits are the realm of custom clothiers thanks to their demand by only men who truly understand their benefits.