The dress shirt beneath a black tie jacket is always white; there is no room for negotiation here. Collars should ideally be turndown, with the collar points hidden behind the bowtie, but modern black tie (particularly in America) has come to accept the sharply-pointed wing collar as well. Traditionalists consider the wing collar too ostentatious for proper black tie, but it is still widely available; men are here, as with peaked lapels, encouraged to consider carefully how much they want to draw attention specifically to their outfits.
Well-made dress shirts should always have a doubled-over "bib" of fabric up the front of the garment, usually decorated with narrow, closely-spaced pleats. The shirt fastens with studs, not buttons, which should always match the cufflinks and are generally restricted to black, gold, or mother-of-pearl, with black being the most common.
Better Clothing Quality and Build
When you have a custom garment created, you are giving a very specific set of instructions to an artist who wants to realize your vision. They work their magic with your chosen fabrics, and the final product is their handmade creation, not a stale cutout from a factory. Quality is higher because each garment is individually created, inspected, and tested. You won't find that even at Brooks Brothers.