Have A Closet Full Of Carefully Chosen Jackets In A Variety Of Fabrics

 There are many who take pride in their appearance at all times, and these will have a closet full of carefully chosen jackets in a variety of fabrics and colors. Wearing sport coats, however, does not necessarily mean owning a large wardrobe. With a blue blazer alone, you can create a huge variety of outfits for all manner of occasions. Add jackets of Harris tweed and herringbone, and you could be ready for just about anything.
Light gray custom made suits is a popular color in warmer climates, making lightweight wools and cotton a natural choice for light gray suits.
"Tropical weight" wool may actually work better than cotton for a suit coat in humid climates -- wool wicks moisture away from its wearer and resists saturation much better than cotton if it is not woven for the heat (seersucker is an example of cotton woven the right way for heat).
Even lightweight wools still have a natural drape that also make them ideal for menswear, falling smoothly down the body without seeming too sculpted or too flowing.
Summer and tropical suits are also often made of linen. This natural fiber is much lighter than wool, and tends to billow on its own. Dyed linen tends to have a very flat, matte appearance as compared to the more lustrous wool.
Cotton is a distant third material, occasionally woven in lightweight twills to make affordable suits, but these tend to wear and stain easily, and lack the breathability and water resistance of wool or linen.
Again - seersucker is the best way to wear a cotton bespoke suit in light gray - but light grey seersucker suits are the realm of custom clothiers thanks to their demand by only men who truly understand their benefits.

Men's Gray Flannel Trousers

Any sport tailor made suits  will look good with a variety of pants. Better, though, that you own a variety of sport coats, and keep the pants simple and functional. Gray flannels go brilliantly with any jacket, and without compromising its versatility or allure. They will last for years, and like the classic navy blazer, they will never go out of style.
Pants should not be the focal point of a man's outfit; rather, a trouser's job is to quickly draw the eye upward to your sport jacket or downward to your dress shoes, and perhaps subtly flatter your legs. The fact is most men are better served highlighting another part of their body. Additionally, since the legs move next to each other, a pattern that appears elegant on the torso such as herringbone or windowpane can easily become jarring below it. It is no wonder, therefore, that virtually all men's trousers sold today are solid in color. Thus the beauty of men's solid gray (or grey) flannel trousers - simple
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Suit Jacket Waist Buttons

Where the lapels end, one finds the waist buttons. As previously indicated, a suit jacket has either one row of buttons or two, depending on whether it is single- or double-breasted. A single-breasted jacket has a single row of buttons, numbering anywhere from one to four, though two and three are most standard, while a single-button is generally limited to the tuxedo. The three-button jacket, although a sometimes unfamiliar garment to those unaccustomed to wearing bespoke suit, is the most traditional configuration, taking its cue from English riding jackets; properly worn, it gives the illusion of height. Traditionally, only the middle or second button is fastened when standing, though the top two buttons may be fastened to produce a slightly more formal appearance. Two-button suits are a slightly later innovation, and because they show more of the shirt and tie, can produce a slightly more slimming appearance. Only the top button of a two-button jacket is fastened; with the exception of a jacket with only one button, the bottom button of a single-breasted jacket is never fastened.

Four-button jackets are somewhat more rare than the other options, but are an elegant choice for the very tall man; because of his height, a four-button suit on a very tall man emulates the look of a three-button jacket on a shorter man. It is very common to see professional basketball players wearing four-button suits; the loud colors and wild patterns often chosen by celebrities, however, should be avoided by the gentleman. Unlike two- and three-button suits, where the bottom button is left undone, a four-button jacket is worn with all four buttons fastened.

Double-breasted jackets most commonly have either four or six buttons on each side – where there are six buttons, only the lower four are for buttoning, though due to the design of the suit, only two will actually be buttoned at any given time. There is also an extra hidden button on the reverse of the outside flap of a double-breasted suit, onto which the inside or "hidden" flap attaches. Contrary to the habits of certain celebrities, a double-breasted jacket is never left unbuttoned when standing, permitting it to flap around wildly; it is always securely buttoned upon standing and remains buttoned until one is again seated. Additionally, while the bottom button of a single-breasted suit is always left undone, both of the operable buttons on a double-breasted jacket are fastened. As with the gorge of the lapel, the height of the waist buttons can be altered slightly to accentuate or diminish height, but this must be done carefully. 

Button and French cuffs

The choice of ones cuff type is a very important detail and should be chosen with the intended use of the dress shirt in mind. Though not everyone requires a closet full of French cuffed shirts, a gentleman should have at least one for those occasions when he wants to appear just a bit more stylish than the ordinary. Embracing this elegant look is an excellent way to declare to all observers that one not only takes pride in his appearance, but also has an appreciation for subtle elegance.

Button Cuffs
Button cuffs are single cuffs, which wrap around the arm and are buttoned into place. The most common button cuffs have a single button or may be adjustable, with two buttons side-by-side. These are the cuffs most commonly found on ready made shirts. In custom shirt circles you'll find dress shirt cuffs with two buttonholes and two vertical buttons, a more formal option often called the barrel cuff. Button cuffs may also have a small button on the sleeve between the cuff and the end of the cuff opening. Called the gauntlet button, this smaller button is intended to prevent the area from opening and exposing the gentleman's wrist. Gauntlet buttons are a sign of a quality made shirt, a small detail ignored by most off the rack manufacturers.

French Cuffs
French cuffs are the most formal cuff option, yet are perfectly appropriate for daily wear in many industries. The French cuff is a double cuff, folded back and fastened with cufflinks to create a distinctive and distinguished appearance. Cufflinks must always be worn with French cuffs – though there are more subtle options available, such as fabric knots – so the gentleman must be prepared to keep a reasonable selection on hand. French cuffs are not made to be rolled up; throw in the phenomenon of cufflinks being prone to disappear, and the French cuff becomes a less attractive option to low maintenance men.

Ties

If the shirts of the early 1960s workforce are by necessity plain, the ties surely make up for it. You won’t see any novelty ties — no Mickey Mouse here, though the character existed by the time the show is set — but you will see a wide variety of patterns and colors in the Mad Men wardrobe. Even Harry Crane’s ubiquitous bow ties are colorful. The “skinny tie” look that most of the cast wears is very period, as is the richness of pattern and general preference for muted but varied colors.

Roger Sterling’s tie here is a classic example: the color is pale, but quite separate from anything he’s wearing anywhere else on his body, and the pattern is varied and even a touch elaborate. Since the Mad Men are careful never to wear patterns that are too similar to those of their suits or shirts, they can wear ties that are visually quite “busy” without looking garish or tacky.

And speaking of tacky, how about that nice tie tack (also called a tie pin) Don’s sporting? Several of the Mad Men like to use tacks or clips to brighten up their ties with a bit of a metallic flash.

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How to choose a dry cleaner for your dress suit

There is not an exact science that tells you when it’s time to take your bespoke suit coat and trousers to the dry cleaner. However, most of us visit the dry cleaners too often. A good rule of thumb is to dry clean your menswear when brushing, airing out and spot cleaning aren’t removing the odors, dirt or stains any more. If you rarely wear a suit, this may be as little as once a year. Of course if you live in your dress suit, you may dry clean more frequently.
Dry clean your dress suit as little as possible. Perc strips the wool fibers of their natural oils. This causes the fibers to become brittle and your dress suit to become worn-though well before its time.

When it comes time to clean your suit, do a bit of homework. Check America’s Best Cleaners, or search Google for any reviews of dry cleaners near you. There is no shortage of dry cleaners, but the ones who have been in business for a while will have both a good following and a good reputation. Take the time to call a few local dry cleaners. If they’re willing to take the time to answer your questions, that may be a sign that you can trust them with your custom suit. Don’t forget to find out if they do their dry cleaning in-house, or send it out to a larger facility. This may not seem like a big deal but it will make a world of difference the first time an item gets misplaced.
Pay attention to how your clothes are handled at intake. A good clerk will mark any spots or problem areas which may need pretreating. Also, be sure to point out any loose buttons. Get a detailed receipt of what you’re dropping off for your records as well. This is a great guide to dry cleaning.

A guide to the history, style and instructions on tying the Windsor necktie knot

The Windsor knot, or the Full Windsor, is the largest of the four most popular necktie knots. Stemming from the royal heritage of the English, this knot enjoys a large prestige when worn. Therefore it is largely a power knot for business.

A Closer Look at the Windsor Knot
The Windsor is a very large symmetrical triangular shaped knot. While the knot is self-releasing, it does not slip when tied correctly. The loops which form the back of the knot allow a bit of space between the collar line and the necktie making the Windsor very comfortable to wear. However it only works with certain types of men’s shirt collars.
The History of the Windsor Knot
Folklore says that the Windsor was handed down to the royal family from King George V along with the crown jewels. The Windsor knot is often believed to be named after the Duke of Windsor (Edward VIII) who preferred a wider, thicker knot. However, the knot is actually attributed to his grandfather, Edward VII.
The Windsor knot also carries a bit of controversy. In the 20′s and 30′s, America fell in deep infatuation with all things fashionable that the Duke (at that time Prince Edward) did. When the the Windsor knot was demonstrated in 1936 two steps were reversed. This created an impossibly complex knot. Whether created as a hoax, or not has never been truly known. But it has led to the mistaken belief that the Windsor knot is exceedingly difficult to tie. However the steps below show this is not so.
How to Tie the Windsor Knot
Step One: Begin with the wide end of the tie on the right side, quite a bit lower than the narrow end. Because the Windsor uses so much material, try 10 to 12 inches.
Step Two: Cross the wide end over the narrow end. Continue this motion by passing the wide end under the narrow end forming a loop around it. Pull firm.
Step Three: Pass the wide end of the tie under the loop you just made. You will now have the underside of the tie showing on the right side.
Step Four: Loop the wide end of the tie over the narrow end again on the right side. Pull this tight as well. You will now have a loop on either side which begins to look like a triangle.
Step Five: Bring the wide end of the tie over both of the loops from right to left. This will form the front of the triangle.
Step Six: Continue by bringing the wide end of the tie between the necktie and the collar line. Tuck this through the loop that you just formed.
Step Seven: Tighten the knot by pulling down gently on the wide end of the tie with one hand and moving the knot up with the other. Don’t forget to straighten and form the dimple.